Cannonau

I had the pleasure of eating at Cannonau (205 E. 4th Street) the other night. I would comment on the reviews thereof, but it has generally passed under the radar of the critics. A few snippets are available and, for once, are basically right on! Thankfully, many of the Sardinian dishes, including zuppetta di fregola, culurgiones (ricotta ravioli), suckling pig and roast wild boar, are all quite good; it is after all a Sardinian restaurant. Others miss, like malloredus al sugo, whose sauce simply did not come together properly. The wine list has many Sardinian wines, the likes of which are difficult to find in NY nad is, therefore, a pleasure. Adding to the pleasure, it is very reasonably priced and quite an attractive restaurant physically.

One critique (unsurprisingly). Ther menu is divided into Sardinian and "traditional Italian" dishes. It reminds me, frankly, of certain Chinese restaurants that have "American Chinese" dishes on the menu. I understand why they feel obligated to cater to American palates and sensibilities by offering such a haven from the foreign character of Sardinia; however, I can still lament it. In point of fact, the menu is not as dull as it could be (soft polenta with wild mushrooms), but l'Osso Buco, the one dish we tried that, although a special, was traditionally Italian, did not measure up. Che pena.